For something so fragrant, it is hard to believe that perfume will really be so sinister.
The sad reality is that most of the fragrances we wear are of questionable origin and have to do with animal abuse, extortion budgets and Frankenstein --
Manipulation of nature.
From capturing animals to harvesting gland secretions, to razing the forest to the ground in search of sweetness
There is no doubt that the perfume industry is an industry. Throat business
However, being a bottle of perfume is one of the most sublime accessories we can buy;
Use their own language to express the totem of personality.
In recent years, the development of vegetarian and sustainable products has become more and more common, thanks in large part to the EU's ban on the use of animal derivatives in perfumes.
This legislation, coupled with the huge cost of animal products, means that you are likely to be using a vegan perfume now.
At the same time, increasingly ethical customers are asking to know where their perfume actually comes from.
"I think they're talking about the standards of perfume and nature, about using harmless products," said Sadie Chowen, owner of The Burren perfume factory.
Natural, no cruel, organic certified producers.
"In general, they are talking about companies with a social conscience that do not test animals and actively work to ensure that they do not.
"As technology provides more alternatives to our decadent past, a new set of obstacles and moral dilemmas have emerged.
The discussion around how to buy perfumes morally is more than just vegetarians, and more importantly, we are eager to kill fewer creatures in the pursuit of delicious food.
In Patrick Suskind's classic, Perfume: The Story of the murderer, an orphan in 18th-century France was born with an amazing sense of smell.
Initially, he used it for good, creating a refined smell for men and women, and soon he used it for evil, and in order to preserve their "pure" smell, he murdered
As you can imagine, this is not a very good end, in the trial of murder, the orphan escapes death by releasing his ethereal fragrance, inciting a city --
The great panic eventually tore itself into pieces by the greedy masses.
This is a long-lasting but disturbing accurate description of the original, intoxicating nature of perfume, showing how easily we can be manipulated by smells.
Smell is by far the most basic of our senses, so primitive that even the greatest writers have a hard time expressing certain scents in words because they almost ignore the definition.
The animal parts of us refuse to be covered up by floral and citrus scents, so we are still looking for the original in our scents.
In the past few centuries, the heavier, more animal-spirited scent has stirred up the hearts of people, and a large amount of material has supported the jasmine flowers in the sky, sending out smells, but at a very small dose, the devil was played to the more refined Angel.
These animals include civet, Musk and amberal, from civet, Musk and whale.
We are eager to rot a little with our sweet and most popular things
After obtaining material through murder and torture of animals.
Social awareness has increased the demand for vegan fragrances, but this change took place more than a century ago.
Long before the EU banned animal derivatives, as natural materials became too expensive, classic perfume companies such as Chanel and Coty began to transition to synthetic perfumes.
Take the amberal as an example: it is naturally discharged from the endangered sperm whale, which appears with stinky wax balls
Smell bile and feces and deposit on the beach.
It is believed that only sperm whales produce amberal, which is extremely rare.
Gradually, the classic perfumers found that they did not have their own liquid gold.
"It's kind of like asking the painter to paint without white paint," Chowen said . ".
"They are trying to create what they think is acceptable, and the complex things they have been doing.
"With the release of Guerlain's iconic Jicky perfume, the first perfume using synthetic spices began a new era of perfume in 1889.
The world met Chanel No. 1 in 1921.
Made of aldehyde.
So if we have a lot of vegan scents, not to mention the most iconic ones, why science can't solve all the problems.
More than a century later, "synthetic things are a painful world," Chowen said ".
"In people's view, nature is good, synthesis is bad.
Synthetic materials are things that are synthesized in the lab, but you can have very cheap synthetic materials that are very scary and very harmful to the environment.
Then you can get artificial synthetic materials that have never been seen in nature, which are molecules produced in the laboratory.
Then you have natural synthetic materials, which are molecules.
"The process of selection is called" natural identical "in which the molecules in natural organic materials are analyzed and used to reproduce odors that are no longer used, such as sandalwood, which are eco-friendly.
This "expands the palette" and allows lighter fragrances to last longer, Chowen said.
As more and more consumers seek certified organic and all-organic synthetic materials
Natural products, while "vegetarian" products are widely expected.
To obtain organic certification, you must use the organic material of 95.
Joan Woods, owner of the waters wild perfume factory in secco, believes that vegetarian fragrances are good for the environment, and that 100 of the company's natural, certified organic and cruel are free.
"We only use 100 of our natural medicines.
We are taking care of the Earth.
We don't want to use pesticides, we don't want chemicals on plants in perfumes, because first, it's destroying the Earth, and second, it's destroying us.
It will enter our skin.
"For her, the beauty of perfume lies in its variability and unpredictable results from its response to the Earth.
"A chemical can never replace the beauty of true Rose Otto, which changes every year, like a vintage wine.
Every season, every batch of perfume we create will be different, because the Earth, the ground and the seasonality will change.
"It's especially interesting when we think about how to deal with smells.
The quickest way we can get to the past and to remember is through smell.
Like memories, the smell only lasted for a while before they started to wear and twist.
The act of bottling a rose, lavender, or Iris is to stop this distortion, which is the act that we are closest to the memory of bottling.
"You don't want perfume to last forever," Woods said . ".
"Only chemicals exist forever.
"There are obvious benefits to organic perfumes, especially small ones --
Mass producers like Chowen and Woods.
Since the marketing budget for a large perfume company may be € 40, companies like Chanel and Dior can't afford perfume that they don't sell, resulting in a possible perfume and a slight change at most.
Using raw materials and special materials, these perfumers can also get very special ingredients in a rare way.
Woods mentioned a scent she mixed with real rose and UDD called "liquid gold --
Even the luxury of a perfumer.
"Unless it is 300 euros, these ingredients will never be used by a large perfume company€400 a bottle.
Since we are small, I am very happy to work with very beautiful ingredients.
As Woods points out, freedom of creation is unmatched: "In France, many big companies have the same nose.
I am the creator of these perfumes so that I am free to work and play with anything.
There are no rules.
Continuous learning.
Just like cooking, mix spices.
"However, the shift to fully organic products on a larger scale suggests that consumers are becoming more socially aware.
Shoppers are no longer content with the same smoke --
Sweet Perfume promoted by Kate Blanchett with another luxurious dress.
They know that the new aftershave will not make them more like Beckham.
What's bigger than this is that customers want their purchases to make sense.
Maybe it's because everything is there, maybe it's a bigger market, maybe we just missed the kind of expectation that Christmas is waiting for Santa, but we have to shop for a purpose.
Perhaps the sin of the recent need to trample on trees and drain the ocean --
We received the attachment.
"I think it's time for us to take responsibility," Chowen said . ".
"We buy less but better.
"Beyond that, customers are also dynamic and eager to find something different.
"They are absolutely willing to put more work into what they buy.
The younger generation, of course.
Those who know what will happen are very anxious and they are voting with their money.
"Perfume, like all the remains of the ancient world, is cruel and noble.
The word "perfume" comes from the Latin pro fumum, meaning "through smoke" and implies that it originated from the burning of incense in religious practice.
Before the wedding night, it was burned by women to smell the smell of hair and body, which was also to cover up the smell of human sacrifice.
This is the connection between ugliness and beauty.
So far, says Chowen, perfume is still the purpose of calling the divine.
"In the best world, it will ship you out when you put perfume.
I think we need to get back to this and not just another fashion accessory.
"The production of luxury perfumes extends to the 18th-century Paris, when wealthy women visit a perfumer as if they were going to" make clothes, "Chowen said.
The woman will be shown a series of scents, choose her favorite, and let it apply on the meat, let it settle down and adapt to her body.
After a cup of tea and some gossip, the smell will be smelled again, possibly distorted, and then it will be the smell of her life.
"For me, this is the real meaning of the word luxury," Chowen said . ".
"Everything is so fast now.
"Maybe we are going back to the place where we are shopping seriously, enjoying our preferences and relying on our own tastes to guide us to better understand ourselves.
We are taking our roots in our land with perfume to help us stop and smell the rose and heal the earth, but Chowen said, what we really want is "I think we are looking for contact ".
"Our connection with the family is weakening, we tend to be more individuals, our connection with religion is weakening, and all networks that link us together --
Land, landscape-is diminishing.
I think our biggest consumer motivation is to replace satisfaction from a more basic part of life.
